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One morning towards the end of summer season I pay a visit to London Bridge station. The day is heat and sunny and, despite the news, which is as unrelentingly grim as ever, I suppose abruptly hopeful; optimism rising interior me like mercury in a thermometer. The station, whose acclaimed £1bn remodelling by using Grimshaw Architects has been shortlisted for the 2019 Stirling prize, is ethereal and spacious, even with the crowds it must accommodate, and the ribbons of timber that cowl the ceilings of its colossal concourse give it a Scandinavian suppose, at once modest and grand. it is like some 21st-century cathedral: a rush-hour temple that for all its circulatory efficiency is determined to remind the harried commuter that there's more to existence than work; that a moment of contemplation is value, if no longer a ignored instruct, then as a minimum a dozen emails.

the new London Bridge is, to my eyes, Britain in microcosm; its history and its americans. Its brick viaducts, as an instance, talk of its Victorian beginnings – the primary station to be in-built the capital, it dates from 1836 – while Grimshaw’s concrete arches subtly conjure postwar brutalism and the building boom of these years. there's an ineffable feel of self assurance here, of a sort that many of us haven’t an awful lot felt on the grounds that 2012 and the Olympics. Western Arcade, which hyperlinks the mainline station to the underground, is committed to sensible stores equivalent to Kiehl’s and the shirtmaker TM Lewin, as well as to a breed of cafe that sells – a sight new to me – “red velvet croissants”. but when you consider that ultimate December it has also been domestic to a branch of the a bit of less elite Greggs, Britain’s largest and most suitable-price bakery chain, the place a hungry traveller in search of a cut price can nonetheless decide on up a 1st Baron Verulam bap and a cup of espresso for simply £

The business is adept in social media – 'a masterclass in public members of the family' stated PR Week of its vegan sausage roll launch

With Brexit looming, who is aware of how neatly Kiehl’s will do at London Bridge – and even Pret a Manger and Leon? If, as looks almost definite, food becomes greater expensive in Britain, and people greater concerned about their jobs, americans can also quickly be quite much less inclined to spend their cash on such quotidian luxuries as moisturising lotion, crayfish sandwiches and Moroccan meatballs. The disaster that currently afflicts the high street – shops closing, premises standing empty, important organizations posting earnings warnings – can also no longer be strictly applicable to the busy geographical regions of neatly designed transport hubs corresponding to this one; in contrast to the decline of ordinary stores, the so-referred to as food-to-go market is determined to grow via £2bn over the subsequent three years. then again, chill winds blow from each aspect. in the 2d quarter of this yr, the financial system shrank via a further contraction within the present quarter would sign a recession. in the meantime, self belief ebbs away. client confidence fell sharply in August. ultimate month, Lloyds financial institution pronounced that corporations are at their gloomiest on the grounds that 2011, when the uk was nevertheless recuperating from the fiscal crash.

If any business can defy this temper, it looks prone to be Greggs. however then it’s already doing simply that. within the six months to 29 June, pretax gains on the business rose to £ up from £ within the equal duration final 12 months, an excellent fifty eight% upward thrust in first-half earnings, with sales up well-nigh 15% in total. When these figures had been released, to a media fanfare that loudly contrasted such success with the distress somewhere else on the excessive highway, its chief executive, Roger Whiteside, said an “awesome yr” at the company, a length that all started with the publicity attracted by using the launch of its vegan sausage roll last January (23% of those purchasing it have been new valued clientele – and as soon as they have been interior the keep they couldn’t resist buying other issues too).

That, despite the fact, is hardly the complete story. Greggs has been growing continuously for years now, successful story generally neglected by means of those who purchase their breakfast at Starbucks, their lunch at Pret and who are very keen indeed on avocados (Greggs, incidentally, now has a stronger share of the united kingdom espresso market than Starbucks). It has had unhealthy instances, of direction. Its worst 12 months ever became 2013, when it found itself at a crossroads (we’ll come again to that). however, it is still certainly one of very few British businesses with an unbroken list of dividend payments to its shareholders (the enterprise turned into floated on the stock market in 1984).

The London Bridge department isn’t large and has no seating, but there are quite greater shoppers queuing inside it than at some other shop in the station and after ages I be part of them. I pick up a vegan sausage roll, which i'll highway look at various later, and a Portuguese custard tart (a new line in London branches) that appears similar to the ones you purchase in the overpriced deli near the place I are living, however at below half the price. I also ask for a flat white and a 1st Baron Beaverbrook roll (the latter is made to order, with the sauce of your alternative). The bill involves £

Minutes later, I’m outside once more, sitting on a bench, individuals-watching, roof-looking at and ingesting: my very own second of contemplation. I accept as true with myself an aficionado of Beaverbrook butties and this one is miraculous: the white roll, smeared with ketchup, is smooth with an excellent crumb and the Viscount St. Albans is crisp and not too salty. The coffee is additionally first rate, if a bit of exiguous. This bap isn’t the primary issue I’ve ever eaten from Greggs, but it surely is by using some stretch essentially the most delicious, notwithstanding how much Grimshaw’s hovering edifice has to do with this, I wouldn’t want to say.

Greggs of Gosforth: the primary Greggs keep, which opened in 1951. photograph: Greggs

Greggs started life in 1939, when a person called John Robson Gregg all started selling eggs and yeast door to door on his bicycle around Newcastle upon Tyne. the first bakery, Greggs of Gosforth in Gosforth excessive street, opened in 1951. today, with some 2,000 shops and 20,000 personnel, its HQ remains in Newcastle, housed in an unprepossessing enterprise park a 20-minute pressure from the centre of the city. The business is well known for its publicity stunts and adept approach with social media – “a masterclass in public members of the family”, talked about PR Week of the launch of its vegan sausage roll – however after I ask to fulfill folks that run it, there is a certain quantity of what seems like foot-dragging. It appears that whereas the Greggs advertising and marketing group is comfy about feeding reports to the sun and the each day Mail, it’s quite much less drawn to giving the Observer access to its secrets and techniques, although I could be imagining this, considering it’s additionally presently making an attempt rather challenging to trade the manner people see it. possibly I’ve just caught them on the hop.

within the end, besides the fact that children, a visit is arranged, which is how I end up sitting within the verify kitchen at Greggs’ HQ one overcast morning with Kate Jones, its senior product construction supervisor. It turned into Jones’s crew that developed the vegan sausage roll; the very merchandise that Piers Morgan greeted on Twitter with the phrases: “no one became looking ahead to a vegan bloody sausage, you computer-ravaged clowns” – cue the largest social media storm ever to hit the realm of baked goods (“Oh whats up, Piers, we’ve been expecting you,” responded Greggs, easily). How promptly did they comprehend it became a hit? (It’s now a bestseller, even though they received’t give me numbers – on this or anything.) “From day one,” says Jones. “We obtained top notch coverage, there become Piers Morgan, and it snowballed from there.”

Did she have any doubts earlier? “It changed into very challenging. Rolling a new product like this out is complex since the complete provide chain must be vegan: storage, transportation, how it’s handled within the retail outlets. it might had been convenient to quit. however we knew there was a niche out there for a sizzling vegan snacking product. a few years ago, we were working on a vegetarian sausage roll and it changed into essentially in a position for launch. It was, even though, fitting very clear from valued clientele that as extra individuals are avoiding certain meals – like dairy, say – vegan products are becoming a proxy for flexitarian diets.”

The vegetarian sausage roll changed into ditched and the business started working in its place on a vegan one. What’s interior it? Jones smiles and looks coy. “We work with Quorn and then we add our very secret savoury flavouring.”

Jones, a home economist through working towards, all started her profession at M&S, where she labored as a buyer for 16 years; later, she led meals policy on the Co-op. nevertheless, relocating to Greggs represents a “massive” profession trade for her. “I’ve come out of retail and into meals-to-go,” she says. “and that i’m also working in a company it truly is absolutely vertically integrated.” I need to look clean, as a result of she provides: “I suggest one that makes just about every little thing itself, rather than purchasing anything else in.”

Her team develops all its products, first in this kitchen, in pots and pans, and then within the industrial stage (vats, in place of pans). a regular Greggs shop has about one hundred fifty food items. Her crew creates 50 new ones every 12 months, though this quantity contains objects where handiest an ingredient has been changed or a sandwich filling tweaked. how many americans taste whatever thing earlier than it goes out? “we now have a pretty good 30 to 50 americans who do factory trials as part of their jobs after which we hang panels with the broader Greggs population, individuals from finance or HR or wherever, who are attempting them. We want people who don't seem to be necessarily useless close to the product, who haven’t nursed it from thought, to assert if they adore it.”

Greggs’s bestselling vegan sausage roll. image: Amy Fortune/Alamy

She takes me on a tour. First, we meet a baker, Fraser, who is icing new flavours of doughnuts that may additionally – Jones is just a little reluctant to inform me – be launched subsequent 12 months: cookies and cream and honeycomb. Then we visit its sensory compartments: compartments that bring to mind these cubicles you see in tv dramas during which a prisoner communicates with their visitor via a mobile through a screen. On one aspect of a divide somebody from Jones’s crew pushes some thing is to be tasted via a hatch. On the other is the taster. The cubicles are tightly controlled in terms of warmth and light-weight and no taster is capable of see the reaction of their colleagues. To evade weariness, he or she simplest ever tries three items at a time.

What are the areas of growth for Greggs? “health,” says Jones. The enterprise anticipates greater legislations around calorie discount and believes it’s already neatly forward in its planning for this. What else? “sizzling meals – and coffee is huge.” How would she sum up the company’s ethos, food-sensible? “taste and amazing price for money.”

Are perceptions of Greggs altering? It looks to me that in the event that they are, then the success of its vegan sausage roll is emblematic of this kind of shift. but what does she feel? Are individuals still snobbish about it? Do they still suppose that it simplest sells greasy, stodgy foods to people that need, and need, to replenish without delay for terribly little charge?

“Two years ago, I might have pointed out sure,” she tells me. “I’d have checked out my mom and brought her as absolute proof of that. but now it’s becoming quite savvy to get it – to find out about our first-class.” This second reminds her, she says, of when discount supermarkets similar to Aldi and Lidl came along. “there have been Waitrose valued clientele who realised they could get super commodities at Aldi.” I remember this too. “just guess the place this smoked salmon came from!” shouted the broke middle courses, as if with one voice. however are the two issues truly the equal? She nods. “americans are really delighted after they discover the latitude of our products.”

As I hearken to her, I take her words with a reasonably hefty pinch of salt. a couple of weeks later, besides the fact that children, i will open a magazine and there will be Nicky Haslam, the ancient Etonian society decorator who as soon as claimed to have had an affair with Lord Snowdon, proudly insisting that Greggs’ coffee is “the ideal”.

within the hope of bringing new customers – and a new type of customer – to Greggs, the company has deployed a number of stunts. Some are tacky. A Valentine’s Day promoting offered “high-quality dining” in retailers, where waiters dressed in black tie served guests mini doughnuts in chocolate dipping sauce. Others are nifty and smart. ultimate yr, as an instance, it attended a food competition in Richmond, Surrey, where it offered guests its wares beneath the identify Gregory & Gregory. When the signal turned into grew to become round to demonstrate the note Greggs, individuals might, says Hannah Squirrel, the company’s advertising director, “hardly ever agree with it”.

Greggs on the Richmond food pageant.

Others are downright cheeky. there is a department of Greggs opposite Fenwick of Newcastle, the Harrods of the north. last 12 months, simply as Fenwick’s Christmas home windows have been printed to the public, a reveal that always attracts a crowd, the enterprise flipped the Greggs sign in order that it might no longer be lower back to entrance when mirrored in the glass. information of this coup is asserted to have travelled so far as Australia. Its missteps are infrequent, even though there become an outcry in 2017 when it replaced Jesus with a sausage roll in a nativity scene (the company quickly apologised).

however is a balancing act. Loyal, older purchasers – the type of people, possibly, who brought about a selection of sausage roll-covered socks, umbrellas and iPhone circumstances to sell out at Greggs on the primary day they grew to be accessible – ought to be kept on side, too, for they are the majority and nonetheless the largest key to its success. To that end some outlets proceed to inventory regional items, attainable only in definite ingredients of the united kingdom (stotties within the north-east, Empire biscuits in Scotland, Tottenham desserts in London; there are reputed to be 25 such delicacies). For these valued clientele, provider is extraordinarily important.

“people will tell us proactively that they left the store with a smile on their face,” says Squirrel. “There was banter, it was down to earth. Some americans say that our personnel have been commonly used to begin making up their commonplace order even earlier than they’ve stepped in the door. They’re regulars, they’re acknowledged, and they like that.” Are its northern roots nevertheless relevant? “sure. since it has not ever overlooked its common values.” This filters down, she believes. It feels, she says, caring and warm.

Greggs begun acquiring different bakeries in 1972, first in Glasgow and Leeds, after which in Manchester, London, Kent and East Anglia (by way of this time, John Gregg had died and his son, Ian, a legal professional who examine classics at Cambridge, became working the company; he's now a philanthropist). In 1994, it got Bakers Oven, a chain of bakeries in the south, retail outlets that it rebranded as Greggs in 2008. The 1,five hundredth shop, in York, opened in 2011.

no one leaves the house looking for a Greggs. They depart the condo after which they suppose hungry.

Roger Whiteside, CEO

In his 2013 e-book, Bread – a memoir-cum-enterprise-guide that includes recipes for bridies, parkin and bread cakes (otherwise referred to as white rolls) – Ian Gregg describes his remarkable joy and experience of relief when, on its flotation in April 1984, the enterprise’s shares were oversubscribed by means of an element of 90. but he also writes – he changed into at all times whatever of a reluctant entrepreneur – of the anxiety he felt. He concerned about its “way of life”; that its “values” could no longer be maintained. Three years later, in 1987, he established the Greggs foundation. so far this 12 months, it has offered breakfasts to babies in underprivileged communities.

Roger Whiteside grew to be chief executive in 2013, having first joined the enterprise as a nonexecutive director. (After tuition in Leeds, he all started his profession at M&S; he then launched Ocado, labored for a personal fairness enterprise on the Thresher neighborhood and put in a stint at Punch Taverns.) Whiteside is the kind of enthusiastic, plain-speaking leader you hear on Evan Davies’s Radio 4 company programme, The final analysis (he recently regarded on the podcast of retail guru Mary Portas). It comes as no surprise when he chooses to satisfy me for lunch in the branch of Greggs nearest his workplace (once I say near, what I suggest is that if he chucked a sizzling steak bake out of his window, it would land outdoor the store’s door). I’m embarrassed to admit that, at this aspect, I’ve never eaten in Greggs. however this doesn’t trouble him at all. It’s ultimate. an additional convert! “Have a sausage roll,” he says. Is that what he’s having? “No, I’ve already had one this week.” he will have a hen caesar wrap.

When Whiteside joined the company he immediately favored what he noticed: “corporations operate on an ethical compass and Greggs is on the best end of that compass, as hostile to the simply hard-nosed end. I prefer this end: making an attempt to do company in nearly as good a method as that you can, since there's always anxiety between attempting to make a earnings and behaving neatly.”

In particular, he preferred the profit share scheme, which he believes contributes “vastly” to the environment at the company and to its success (10% of its gains are shared with each member of workforce, as long as they've been at the company for a year). “We care for our individuals and they reply by way of giving more suitable provider,” he says. How does he recognize this? “We do rigorous engagement surveys and the ratings are all the time high. And bear in mind once we had snow? A Greggs lorry bought caught and the motive force took it upon himself, realizing he become not going to get to the shop, to distribute his items, free, to those at the back of him. He didn’t ask for permission, as a result of he didn’t need to.” Did this please him? “i was over the moon!”

A Greggs delivery driver hands out free desserts and pastries to snowed-in drivers in March final yr. photograph: Les Goff/PA

all of the equal, in 2013, he had his work cut out. “Greggs’ worst year ever. It became losing market share in bakery, the place it had been competing with supermarkets for a long time. To catch up on that it had been establishing a presence in food-on-the-go, however it became additionally dropping share there too, as a result of there have been so many new entrants to that sector: Costa, Subway, Tesco categorical, M&S quite simply food… We additionally had a espresso shop thought.”

Whiteside determined that the enterprise couldn't compete on three separate fronts and that it could henceforth pay attention to meals-on-the-go. Its “offer” changed into absolutely revamped, with greater focus on the growing to be breakfast market in addition to on healthier and sizzling meals, its outlets have been refitted and, to help all this, its 12 factories had been consolidated, with these final concentrating on the manufacture of just one merchandise. (Its cream cakes are now all made in Leeds, for instance, and its rolls in Enfield.).

meanwhile, Whiteside pondered Greggs’ areas. individuals like Greggs, he believes, for the freshness of its goods; the supermarkets promote a wider alternative of sandwiches at equivalent expenses, but in contrast to Greggs, theirs are made in factories and stored for two or three days (Greggs makes its sandwiches in keep and they're now not kept overnight). despite the fact, there's additionally the query of comfort. “no one leaves the house hunting for a Greggs,” he says, with some honesty. “They depart the condo after which they suppose hungry.” where are they prone to be when this raging starvation strikes? With footfall on the high street in decline, Greggs all started opening branches in workplace parks, on garage forecourts and different out-of-town locations.

“We open 150 retail outlets each and every 12 months and 90% of these can be non-high highway and we shut 50 each year, and people are all high street. in the past six years, we have closed 300 excessive road shops, but we now have opened a lot more elsewhere.” Opening hours are being prolonged in some stores in the hope of luring in evening diners. As Whiteside boasted this summer season, “We want to are trying and do the same for night as we did in breakfast.”

in the next 5 years, the enterprise will open one hundred outlets each year, within the process creating 1,000 new jobs each year. And after that? “each of our stores at the moment has only 1 queue: the stroll-in queue. We are looking to build three: we need to add click on and assemble and beginning, each of which we’re trialling.” Does he seek advice from his shops incognito? “I don’t announce myself. but in today’s video age, a lot of people realize me. With ears like this –” he features to the sides of his head – “I haven’t obtained a chance! I’d want a toupee and Sellotape.”

Perceptions of Greggs are altering, he says. people like me – a wide smile – have out of date views about it. youngsters, this takes careful management. When the business ceased to be a standard baker, individuals had been upset. “I’ve received a drawer crammed with letters from valued clientele who were irritated they may now not purchase their loaf. The consumer is all the time appropriate, but you should say to those that are striking on to the previous that you simply are not there for them any longer.”

How posh would the company go? “We’re no longer posh now.” Would he put, say, hummus on the menu? “We’re now not going to do things that have restrained enchantment. We democratise issues which have a becoming attraction. we can from time to time take issues we see in London, just like the flat white. other things we’ve tried [to copy] best have attraction in London, like protein pots. Two boiled eggs on a mattress of spinach. Even at half the expense, no person wanted it.”

As Whiteside talks – at moments, he is unstoppable – I feel about Greggs and its lengthy background. Its metamorphosis says so a whole lot about British consuming habits and the entire techniques in which they’ve modified (and, equally, no longer modified at all – for don’t we still crave pastry, in spite of the fact that it is freed from animal fats?). The business has reached its zenith, furthermore, at the same time as the major political experience and capabilities disaster it really is Brexit. Its Britishness, its success, and this historical second seem, one way or the other, to be linked, notwithstanding it’s complicated to pin this down precisely. Does Greggs have a place on Brexit? “No,” says Whiteside. “It’s too divisive. Our valued clientele are break up. We’re not going to take facets.”

nevertheless, Britain’s main purveyor of Empire biscuits (two rounds of shortbread caught in conjunction with jam), emphatically doesn't assist a no-deal Brexit. “We’re getting ready for the worst and hoping for the most beneficial. If there's disruption on the port… We might go wanting salad. We don’t develop satisfactory right here and you may’t shop it. What if we’ve acquired no lettuce? can we nonetheless make a sandwich devoid of it? Would spinach be an acceptable alternative? Or would we need to discontinue certain sandwiches?”

He looks at his chicken caesar wrap as if it contains half the mysteries of the world.

Kshitij Patel outdoor the terrific Portland highway branch of Greggs. picture: Anita Sethi

Kshitij Patel, fifty three, IT engineer (notable Portland street branch, London)It’s a very good price – in other places in significant London the expenses are bonkers. I’m from Luton however I shuttle to Soho to work and forestall via here in particular. It’s short carrier and wonderful for vegetarians. considering the fact that they brought within the vegan roll it’s been striking. occasionally, I get the tuna bake. I’m a daily right here nonetheless it’s no longer my each day activities – it could be too fattening to come back each day! It’s my treat for the week. these days, I’ll be having two vegan rolls.

Jay Reed, forty four, Builder (high-quality Portland street department, London)i really like the indisputable fact that the cost is decent and the food tastes awesome. I work just around the corner. I’m a builder and a daily here. i love the breakfast – Sir Francis Bacon baguettes, sausage rolls and steak bakes are my favourites. We’re lower back at lunchtime too for one in every of their sandwiches. every time I see a Greggs I pop in and get whatever thing – i will be able to’t face up to.

Fiona Mayle, 62, works at the international and Commonwealth office (Westminster department, London)Greggs increases my well being within the morning. I reside in E13 but work on the FCO. i really like that the carrier is terribly brief and additionally the fabulous meal deals, which I commonly get – a roll with sausage or William Maxwell Aitken and a espresso. these days, i will have a beautiful sausage roll with tomato sauce – an outstanding start to the day.

Andrew Koumis, 30, analyst (Westminster department, London)Their sausage rolls are my absolute usual and amazing cost for cash. I’ve been coming to Greggs consistently considering that this department opened [last year]. a number of of my colleagues and pals additionally come – it’s so respectable to have a branch in the enviornment.

Sheena Mal, 29, commerce consultant (Westminster branch, London)i like Greggs – it’s inexpensive and attractive. The pasties and the breakfasts are extraordinary. nowadays, I’m having the creamy porridge. I’ve been going to Greggs for years, including the one in the area where I grew up in west London. There’s at all times some thing i love and often whatever new on the menu.

Eleanor Lisney, 60, incapacity campaigner (Westminster department, London)I are living in Greenwich but I’m right here for a meeting. It’s remarkable to discover Greggs here. I come for the vegan food. i really like the vegan rolls. I’m a wheelchair person and when it comes to accessibility restaurants are variable however I’ve in no way found any Greggs inaccessible. It’s first rate to discover a department at the precise tube station.

Prav Gupta, 35; Steve Agate, forty five; Masoud Bayat, 42, IT consultants (Westminster department, London)We’re colleagues and often come right here collectively – we love how the smell hits you in the event you get off the escalator first thing within the morning. The breakfasts truly set us up for the day, including the omelette and sausage rolls, and nothing beats a great espresso from Greggs to get the day all started.

Aamna Mohdin, 27, news reporter (Westminster department, London)i like how low priced it is. I grew up in east London and went to the Greggs there however stopped going for a while. It’s the vegan rolls which have introduced me lower back!

Interviews by using Anita Sethi


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